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Author Topic: Anubias article - Practical Fish Keeping magazine  (Read 66 times)

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Offline frosties

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Anubias article - Practical Fish Keeping magazine
« on: January 24, 2012, 09:52:07 AM »
This article has yet to be printed. It was written yesterday and is the third article in the series. Please if it is printed - support Practical FishKeeping by purchasing a copy.

Comments Appreciated.

What environments are wild Anubias found in?
In this genus are eight species with hybrids from each of the eight, however each of the eight are endmic to West Africa. They can be found in the savanna, forested areas as well as along the major rivers such as the Zaire (Congo) and Ogowe. The natural habitat of these plants is amphibious and it prefers the environment to be hot and humid with plenty of shade. Like most marginal plants – they do become submerse for a period of time when the river floods.

What lighting requirements do they have?
The genus of plants called anubias is named after the Egyptian God Anubis, The God of the shadows. Therefore to put this plant in full sun or bright light would be the wrong idea. These are all best in partial dappled light.

How are they used differently in the aquarium to most plants?

Anubias are totally different to most plants in the aquarium – yet they do have similarities to many as well. Most plants prefer full bright light for as many hours per day as possible – and as a result grow fast. They use up nitrates in the water quickly and also require warm water. An anubia differs there – they require cooler water, darker lighting and little fertilization and grow somewhat slower than other plants. They should not be planted in the substrates like other plants as they have a fleshy rhizome in which they store their nutrients for the growth of the plant. They should be instead attached to a branch, a rock or even a filter pipe to grow onto. They can as a last resort be laid on the surface of the substrate but not buried. They are usually planted at the extremes of an aquarium to the sides where the lighting is lower or even under other taller stems.

Do they have any specific nutritional requirements?
In essence no… but they do suffer magnesium, manganese, molybdenum and nitrogen deficiencies – and as such display yellowing of the leaves. This is predominantly on the older leaves… The majority of these nutrients are delivered in trace element salts or the generic plant fertilizers which are water based available by the main manufacturers. Magnesium and Sulphur are available as Magnesium Sulphate salts which are available from online sources. This is a whole specialist field in itself.
In general the Anubia will take these nutrients up slowly and store them in the rhizome but when the plant displays the yellowing – the rhizome stores are depleted and the plant should be removed and put in a high dose fertilizer tank to recover.

Do they benefit from the addition of CO2?
As this plant is in its natural state an amphibious plant it does require CO2. That said – it will take up far more in the emerse form than in the water. CO2 is the fuel that all plants require for lush growth and therefore I recommend it – but it is not essential. An anubia is a hardy plant and will survive without the addition to your aquarium.

What are typically encountered Anubias problems?
Rot and dehydration. Rot usually occurs when the anubia rhizome is planted in the substrate. As it is a fleshy rhizome it can suffer from pressure contact sores so will rot from there. The weight of a grave based substrate is enough to bruise it and cause damage – similar to that of an apple… store too many apples in a box and they will rot.
Dehydration is where the plant is supplied in a submerse form and it is a while before it is planted again in the tank, the leaves dry out. This can happen in the period of a few hours!

How are Anubias propagated?
Anubias commercially are propagated emmerse as this offers the plants the best growing conditions. They also grow faster and stronger. They are then transitioned to submerse when they are stored and shipped to the UK aquatic shops. This way it is a far more stable transition for the plant – it thinks the river is in flood again so acts like a sponge, absorbing what it can, when it can.
That said – they can be propagated in submerse form – it just takes longer and the process is the same.
Take an anubia, look for the direction of growth – that is the leading leaf… cut back at least 2.5cm (1 inch) from this leading growth and ensure there is at least two leaves on this cutting. Tie them on to a piece of wood or rock and leave to grow. Then repeat again on the original anubia to gain more plants. You should get 2 or 3 plants from a single new plant from a shop. There must be a leaf attached to the rhizome for it to take correctly.

How many species are available?
Earlier I stated there are 8 species available – and lots of hybrids. The common species we see in the industry is the Barteri but others are available - Afzelii, Gigantea, Gracilis, Hastifolia, Heterohylla, Garbon – note congensis has been reclassified to Heterophylla ‘lancelota’. They all have their own characteristics and are each as exquisite in their own right.
Hybrids available are:
Anubias barteri var angustifolia
Anubias barteri var barteri (True species)
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘Broad Leaf’ (most common in the UK market)
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘Marble’
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘variegated’
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘wavy’
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘coffeefolia’
Anubias barteri var nana (common in the UK market)
Anubias barteri var nana ‘marble’
Anubias barteri var nana ‘narrowleaf’
Anubias barteri var nana ‘petite’ (smallest anubia in the world at 0.3cm leaf size)
Anubias barteri var nana ‘stardust’
Anubias barteri var nana ‘variegated’
Anubias barteri var nana ‘wrinkled leaf’
Anubias barteri var barteri ‘golden’
Anubias barteri var nana ‘golden’

Are they truly aquatic? They seem to remain upright even when removed from water.
No – an anubia is not truly aquatic at all. They are categorized as amphibious and deos grow far quicker out of water.

Is there any risk involved in buying a flowering Anubias?

Risk – no… the flower is a sign of health – but you have to examine it well. An emerse grown plant with a flower will have hexagonal shapes which are well spaced in the stemen of the plant – this is where the pollen is released from. If however the hexagonal shapes are close together – then the plant has flowered submerse. Do not put an emerse grown flower underwater or the plant will drown and rot. Instead, carefully remove the flower from the rhizome by peeling it back against the direction of growth and then the plant can be submersed.

What other plant species are wild Anubias found alongside?

Vallisneria Americana var biwaensis, Crinium Calamistratum, Crinium Natans, Nesaea pedicellata, Nymphaea lotus zenkeri(Green and red forms), Ottelia ulvifolia which are all submerse plants. Eleocharis Acicularis could be found both submerse and emerse, whereas Aeschynomene fluitans is a floating plant.

Are Anubias seasonal plants, or can they remain submerged all year?

Can they or should they are two distinct patterns of thought here. Can they – yes. Should they – no. The plant is used to being submerse for part of the year – not all as it lives predominantly on the water edge – the rhizome is normally submerse but the leaves are emerse.

What can be done to save Anubias that have algae forming on the leaves?
If the plant is not too far gone, and the algae is not too well taken hold, then transition the plant to emerse form. This takes time and patience and does need a fogger to do this correctly. The Algae will die off and you can then return it to the aquarium in a submerse form.
That said – most of us do not have the time or the fogger unit… Speak to our friends who have a vivarium – they can certainly help out here! So we have to do something more drastic. You can with a soft toothbrush – clean each leaf – but be careful not to exert too much pressure or you will damage the leaf and it will die. The other way is to remove the plant and put it in a small tank – with NO filtration. Then add high levels of easy carbo or flourish excel to the tank with the anubia in it. The chemicals need to be added direct to the affected areas – ideally with a syringe and if done correctly – the algae will turn pink. Remove the plant, wash it carefully under a tap then add it back to your aquarium. Be very careful with this method – as high levels of easy carbo and Flourish excel can have detrimental effects on your fish and or shrimp populations!

Are Anubias toxic for fish that eat plants?
No – but they are believed to be bitter in taste!
« Last Edit: January 27, 2012, 10:25:15 AM by frosties »

Offline ghostsword

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Re: Anubias article - Practical Fish Keeping magazine
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2012, 11:04:44 AM »
Some updates..

Anubias do like high light, but one needs to have CO2 to promote growth, otherwise they will grow slower than algae on their leaves. However, the safest way is to placed them on the shade to minimise the lighting issue. :)

Also, not all anubias are the same. Tall and lanky anubias actually like light.. :)
Luis E.
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Offline Bri

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Re: Anubias article - Practical Fish Keeping magazine
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2012, 11:08:47 AM »
Anubias are me fave and thats probably why i have so many :)

A good write up with some stuff i didnt know.
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Offline frosties

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Re: Anubias article - Practical Fish Keeping magazine
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2012, 10:33:39 AM »
Anubias do like high light, but one needs to have CO2 to promote growth, otherwise they will grow slower than algae on their leaves. However, the safest way is to placed them on the shade to minimise the lighting issue. :)

Also, not all anubias are the same. Tall and lanky anubias actually like light.. :)

Luis has made some valid points here... but lets explore...

Tall lanky anubias - like the Afzelli, Heterophylla and Hastifolia - are found along the rivers - however for the majority of these - they are found in the savanna and there they grow into giants. They grow tall to get the light from above their neighbours - Grass!
Now where they grow on the savanna - they grow in the marshy areas near or around the water holes. Therefore everything here grows particularly big.

Now onto lighting... think about it... how much shade is there in the savanna??? so these plants require light... but the plants grow competitively with others - this means quite simply that they dont take direct light - but what they get could be bright... but this is emerse growth - not submerse. Where they grow in the water - they get more dappled shady water.

I also agree with Luis comments about CO2 - I said that it is required for lush growth - but they dont have to have it to grow... personally - CO2 all the way for me.

 

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